Recalibrator Revision 1.
Warning: Early version, passes only basic firing & assembly, not used on the field yet. Do not print/build unless you're already familiar with the blaster and/or very experienced with both nerf modding and 3D printing, and have the prerequisite tools. (Vice, hacksaw, Dremel, etc.).
Warning: Some parts ended up being exported to the incorrect orientation - Adjust as necessary for printing.
The goal of this project is to adjust the Caliburn to suit my needs in gameplay, thus the following changes have been made.
- Shortened design for ease of use in CQB, without compromising compatibility nor features. Currently went from 6" draw to 4.7", but may continue making reductions down to about 3.5". (I botched the initial calculations and shortened by 31mm instead of 62mm - now I'm running out of space to crunch down the catch until it gets uncomfortable. Will consider other ways to shorten, or simply leave it as-is.)
- Fully compatible with all native Caliburn springs, but they need to be cut down. Should be compatible with various stock extension mods as well.
- Reduced plunger volume reduces excess air from negatively impacting dart flight trajectory.
- Improved ram base and plunger O-ring seals for better performance and blaster longetivity. Unfortunately, the ram base has quite a bit of friction right now, which I'm working on addressing in Revision 2.
- Replaced ram rod with 1/2" PEX as an experiment to reduce costs. (Adhere PusherFront.stl to the tip of a 1/2" length of PEX, while the other end sits in the ram base. This part originates from another one of my projects in development.) If this fails in battle such as due to excess flex, I will revert to other materials or go for a brass breech. Unfortunately, the constricted airflow from the printed ram tip appears to be affecting performance, as evident by the fact that I'm able to safely dry fire the blaster.
I've achieved full seal (as far as I can tell) between the plunger and ram base, by using epoxy on the ram. However, the ram front is still leaking against the barrel and will be fixed next.
Blaster requires custom-cut hardware, such as custom-cut priming bars, threaded rods, cut down mainspring, and pump rail sleeves.
Use your discretion and common sense when printing parts. I print with 2mm-3mm walls/perimeters, 90% or 20% depending on part. 20% will reduce weight on the plunger, and will save material on the large parts such as the magwell. An enclosure is helpful for cold environments when printing large parts regardless of material.
Step not available for Ra-stl_Grip5t.stl and Ra-stl_RAIL_TOP-SHADWELL-MONO.STL. The step file for Grip5t is OUTDATED and does not have the latest updates, so I went by a polygon edit. I did the same for the top rail piece for the shadwell/monolithic version.
a_DartJamA.stl is only needed if you're using my experimental NAKM - Not A Katana Mag. (A project which I will fix and update once I get this Caliburn setup how I like it.) Object positions in the step file are a mess since I'm still trying to figure out how to do it correctly. My apologies in the meantime.
Of course, use the rest of the stock Caliburn parts to fill in for what's not included here.
Good luck. I will try to make the documentation less hideous and more existent as I go along.
Update: Added parts for brass breech based off Remzak's remix. Brass Muzzle is the same as the original, Brass Rambase only references the diameter, but is otherwise the edit I made with improving the seal. (Though I'm going to reduce the diameter of it by just a hair on the next revision, as this is adding quite a bit of friction.)